About ISHANI
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EXPERT SERVICES WE PROVIDE
HAIR
Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles found in the dermis, or skins
Most common interest in hair is focused on hair growth, hair types and hair care, but hair is also an important biomaterial primarily composed of protein, notably keratin. Attitudes towards hair, such as hairstyles and hair removal, vary widely across different cultures and historical periods, but it is often used to indicate a person's personal beliefs or social position, such as their age, gender, or religion.
Hair fibers have a structure consisting of several layers, starting from the outside:
1. the cuticle, which consists of several layers of flat, thin cells laid out overlapping one
another as roof shingles,
2. the cortex, which contains the keratin bundles in cell structures that remain roughly
rod-like.
3. the medulla, a disorganized and open area at the fiber's center.
Description
Each strand of hair is made up of the medulla, cortex, and cuticle. The innermost region, the medulla, is not always present and is an open, unstructured region. The highly structural and organized cortex, or middle layer of the hair, is the primary source of mechanical strength and water uptake. The cortex contains melanin, which colors the fiber based on the number, distribution and types of melanin granules. The shape of the follicle determines the shape of the cortex, and the shape of the fiber is related to how straight or curly the hair is. People with straight hair have round hair fibers. Oval and irregularly shaped fibers are generally more wavy or even curly. The cuticle is the outer covering. Its complex structure slides as the hair swells and is covered with a single molecular layer of lipid that makes the hair repel water.
Hair growth begins inside the hair follicle. The only "living" portion of the hair is found in the follicle. The hair that is visible is the hair shaft, which exhibits no biochemical activity and is considered "dead". The base of a hair's root (the "bulb") contains the cells that produce the hair shaft.
Natural color
All natural hair colors are the result of two types of hair pigments. Both of these pigments are melanin types, produced inside the hair follicle and packed into granules found in the fibers. Eumelanin is the dominant pigment in brown hair, and black hair, while pheomelanin is dominant in red hair. Blond hair is the result of having little pigmentation in the hair strand. Gray hair occurs when melanin production decreases or stops, while poliosis, typically in spots is hair (and often the skin to which the hair is attached) that never possessed melanin at all in the first place, or ceased for natural genetic reasons, generally in the first years of life.
Human hair growth
Hair follows a specific growth cycle with three distinct and concurrent phases: anagen, catagen, and telogen phases. Each has specific characteristics that determine the length of the hair. All three occur simultaneously; one strand of hair may be in the anagen phase, while another is in the telogen phase.
The body has different types of hair, including vellus hair and androgenic hair, each with its own type of cellular construction. The different construction gives the hair unique characteristics, serving specific purposes, mainly warmth and protection.
Texture
Hair exists in a variety of textures. Three main aspects of hair texture are the curl pattern, volume, and consistency. The derivations of hair texture are not fully understood. All mammalian hair is composed of keratin, so the make-up of hair follicles is not the source of varying hair patterns. There are a range of theories pertaining to the curl patterns of hair. Scientists have come to believe is that the shape of the hair shaft has an effect on the curliness of the individual's hair. A very round shaft allows for less disulfide bonds to be present in the hair strand. This means the bonds present are directly in line with one another, resulting in straight hair. The flatter the hair shaft becomes, the curlier hair gets, because the shape allows more cysteines to become compacted together resulting in a bent shape that, with every additional disulfide bond, becomes curlier in form. As the hair follicle shape determines curl pattern, the hair follicle size determines thickness. While the circumference of the hair follicle expands, so does the thickness of the hair follicle. An individual's hair volume, as a result, can be thin, normal, or thick. The consistency of hair can almost always be grouped into three categories: fine, medium, and coarse. This trait is determined by the hair follicle volume and the condition of the strand. Fine hair has a small circumference in relation to medium and coarse strands; coarse hair having the largest circumference. Coarse hair has a more open cuticle than thin or medium hair causing it to be the most porous.
Classification systems
There are various systems that people use to classify their curl patterns. Being knowledgeable of an individual's hair type is a good start to knowing how to take care of one's hair. There is not just one method to discovering one's hair type.
Hair Classification System
This hair typing system is the most widely used system to classify hair.. According to this system there are four types of hair: straight, wavy, curly, kinky.
Type 1 is straight hair, which reflects the most sheen and also the most resilient hair of all of the hair types. It is hard to damage and immensely difficult to curl this hair texture. Because the sebum easily spreads from the scalp to the ends without curls or kinks to interrupt its path, it is the most oily hair texture of all.
Type 2 is wavy hair, whose texture and sheen ranges somewhere between straight and curly hair. Wavy hair is also more likely to become frizzy than straight hair. While type A waves can easily alternate between straight and curly styles, type B and C Wavy hair is resistant to styling.
Type 3 is curly hair known to have an S-shape. The curl pattern may resemble a lowercase "s", uppercase "S", or sometimes an uppercase "Z". This hair type is usually voluminous, "climate dependent, and damage prone." Lack of proper care causes less defined curls.
Type 4 is kinky hair.
TYPE 1: Straight |
||
1a |
Straight (Fine/Thin) |
Hair tends to be very soft, shiny, oily, poor at holding curls but difficult to damage. |
1b |
Straight (Medium) |
Hair characterised by volume and body. |
1c |
Straight (Coarse) |
Hair tends to be bone-straight and difficult to curl. Common in Asian women. |
TYPE 2: WavyM |
||
2a |
Wavy (Fine/Thin) |
Hair has definite "S" pattern and is usually receptive to a variety of styles. |
2b |
Wavy (Medium) |
Can tend to be frizzy and a little resistant to styling. |
2c |
Wavy (Coarse) |
Frizzy or very frizzy with thicker waves; often more resistant to styling. |
TYPE 3: Curly |
||
3a |
Curly (Loose) |
Curly hair that usually presents a definite "S" pattern and tends to combine thickness, fullness, body and/or frizziness. |
3b |
Curly (Tight) |
As 3a but with tighter curling. |
TYPE 4: Kinky |
||
4a |
Kinky (Soft) |
Hair tends to be very fragile, tightly coiled and can feature curly patterning. |
4b |
Kinky (Wiry) |
As 4a but with less visible (or no) curly patterning. |
FIA hair classification |
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Curliness |
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Straight |
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1a |
Stick-straight. |
|
1b |
Straight but with a slight body wave adding some volume. |
|
1c |
Straight with body wave and one or two visible S-waves (e.g. at nape of neck or temples). |
|
Wavy |
||
2a |
Loose with stretched S-waves throughout. |
|
2b |
Shorter with more distinct S-waves (resembling e.g. braided damp hair). |
|
2c |
Distinct S-waves, some spiral curling. |
|
Curly |
||
3a |
Big, loose spiral curls. |
|
3b |
Bouncy ringlets. |
|
3c |
Tight corkscrews. |
|
Very ("Really") curly |
||
4a |
Tightly coiled S-curls. |
|
4b |
Z-patterned (tightly coiled, sharply angled) |
|
Strands |
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F |
Fine |
|
M |
Medium |
|
C |
Coarse |
|
Volume |
||
i |
Thin |
circumference less than 2 inches (5 centimetres) |
ii |
Normal |
... from 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 centimetres) |
iii |
Thick |
... more than 4 inches (10 centimetres) |
Waxing
Waxing involves using a sticky wax and strip of paper or cloth to pull hair from the root. Waxing is the ideal hair removal technique to keep an area hair-free for long periods of time. It can take three to six weeks for waxed hair to begin to resurface again. Hair in areas that have previously been waxed also is known to grow back finer and thinner, especially compared to hair that has been shaved with a razor.
Laser removal
Laser hair removal is a cosmetic method where a small laser beam pulses selective heat on dark target matter in the area that causes hair growth without harming the skin tissue. This process is repeated several times over the course of many months to a couple of years with hair regrowing less frequently until it finally stops; this is used as a more permanent solution to waxing or shaving.
SKIN
The human skin is the outer covering of the body. In humans, it is the largest organ of the integumentary system. The skin has multiple layers of ectodermal tissue and guards the underlying muscles, bones, ligaments and internal organs
Because it interfaces with the environment, skin plays a key immunity role in protecting the body against pathogens and excessive water loss. Its other functions are insulation, temperature regulation, sensation, synthesis of vitamin D, and the protection of vitamin B folates. Severely damaged skin will try to heal by forming scar tissue. This is often discolored and depigmented.
In humans, skin pigmentation varies among populations, and skin type can range from dry to oily. Such skin variety provides a rich and diverse habitat for bacteria that number roughly 1000 species from 19 phyla.
Skin has mesodermal cells, pigmentation, or melanin provided by melanocytes, which absorb some of the potentially dangerous ultraviolet radiation (UV) in sunlights
Functions
Skin performs the following functions:
1.Protection: an anatomical barrier from pathogens and damage between the internal and external environment in bodily defense; Langerhans cells in the skin are part of the adaptive immune system.
2.Sensation: contains a variety of nerve endings that react to heat and cold, touch, pressure, vibration, and tissue injury; see somatosensory system and haptics.
3.Heat regulation: the skin contains a blood supply far greater than its requirements which allows precise control of energy loss by radiation, convection and conduction. Dilated blood vessels increase perfusion and heatloss, while constricted vessels greatly reduce cutaneous blood flow and conserve heat.
4.Control of evaporation: the skin provides a relatively dry and semi-impermeable barrier to fluid loss. Loss of this function contributes to the massive fluid loss in burns.
5.Aesthetics and communication: others see our skin and can assess our mood, physical state and attractiveness.
6.Storage and synthesis: acts as a storage center for lipids and water, as well as a means of synthesis of vitamin D by action of UV on certain parts of the skin.
7.Excretion: sweat contains urea, however its concentration is 1/130th that of urine, hence excretion by sweating is at most a secondary function to temperature regulation.
8.Absorption: the cells comprising the outermost 0.25–0.40 mm of the skin are "almost exclusively supplied by external oxygen", although the "contribution to total respiration is negligible". In addition, medicine can be administered through the skin, by ointments or by means of adhesive patch, such as the nicotine patch or iontophoresis. The skin is an important site of transport in many other organisms.
9.Water resistance: The skin acts as a water resistant barrier so essential nutrients aren't washed out of the body.
Pigments
There are at least five different pigments that determine the color of the skin. These pigments are present at different levels and places.
Melanin: It is brown in color and present in the germinative zone of the epidermis.
Melanoid: It resembles melanin but is present diffusely throughout the epidermis.
Carotene: This pigment is yellow to orange in color. It is present in the stratum corneum and fat cells of dermis and superficial fascia.
Hemoglobin : It is found in blood and is not a pigment of the skin but develops a purple color.
Oxyhemoglobin: It is also found in blood and is not a pigment of the skin. It develops a red color.
Hygiene and skin care
Cosmetics should be used carefully on the skin because these may cause allergic reactions. Each season requires suitable clothing in order to facilitate the evaporation of the sweat. Sunlight, water and air play an important role in keeping the skin healthy. Similarly each season needs a particular home care product.
The Only Answer is Le Bonheur
Oily skin
Oily skin is caused by over-active sebaceous glands, that produce a substance called sebum, a naturally healthy skin lubricant When the skin produces excessive sebum, it becomes heavy and thick in texture. Oily skin is typified by shininess, blemishes and pimples. The oily-skin type is not necessarily bad, since such skin is less prone to wrinkling, or other signs of aging, because the oil helps to keep needed moisture locked into the epidermis (outermost layer of skin).
The negative aspect of the oily-skin type is that oily complexions are especially susceptible to clogged pores, blackheads, and buildup of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Oily skin can be sallow and rough in texture and tends to have large, clearly visible pores everywhere, except around the eyes and neck.
Aging
As skin ages, it becomes thinner and more easily damaged. Intensifying this effect is the decreasing ability of skin to heal itself as a person ages.
Among other things, skin aging is noted by a decrease in volume and elasticity. There are many internal and external causes to skin aging. For example, aging skin receives less blood flow and lower glandular activity.
A validated comprehensive grading scale has categorized the clinical findings of skin aging as laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and the various facets of photoaging, including
erythema/telangiectasia (redness), dyspigmentation (brown discoloration), solar elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths) and poor texture.
Cortisol causes degradation of collagen, accelerating skin aging.
Photoaging
Photoaging has two main concerns: an increased risk for the appearance of damaged skin. In younger skin, sun damage will heal faster since the cells in the epidermis have a faster turnover rate, while in the older population the skin becomes thinner and the epidermis turnover rate for cell repair is lower which may result in the dermis layer being damaged.
Variability in skin tone
Human skin shows high skin color variety from the darkest brown to the lightest pinkish-white hues. Human skin shows higher variation in color than any other single mammalian species and is the result of natural selection. Skin pigmentation in humans evolved to primarily regulate the amount of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) penetrating the skin, controlling its biochemical effects.
The actual skin color of different humans is affected by many substances, although the single most important substance determining human skin color is the pigment melanin. Melanin is produced within the skin in cells called melanocytes and it is the main determinant of the skin color of darker-skinned humans. The skin color of people with light skin is determined mainly by the bluish-white connective tissue under the dermis and by the hemoglobin circulating in the veins of the dermis.
In the same population it has been observed that adult human females are considerably lighter in skin pigmentation than males. Females need more calcium during pregnancy and lactation and vitamin D which is synthesized from sunlight helps in absorbing calcium. For this reason it is thought that females may have evolved to have lighter skin in order to help their bodies absorb more calcium.
Description |
||
I |
Always burns, never tans |
Pale, Fair, Freckles |
II |
Usually burns, sometimes tans |
Fair |
III |
May burn, usually tans |
Light Brown |
IV |
Rarely burns, always tans |
Olive brown |
V |
Moderate constitutional pigmentation |
Brown |
VI |
Marked constitutional pigmentation |
Black |
Skin layers
Skin is composed of three primary layers:
the epidermis, which provides waterproofing and serves as a barrier to infection;
the dermis, which serves as a location for the appendages of skin
• the hypodermis (subcutaneous adipose layer).
Sunblock and sunscreen
Although some believe that sunblock and sunscreen are both the same, they are not, although they have similar properties and are both important in caring of the skin.
Sunblock Sunblock is opaque and is stronger than sunscreen since it is able to block majority of the UVA/UVB rays and radiation from the sun, thus not having to be reapplied several times a day. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are two of the important ingredients in sunblock.
Sunscreen Sunscreen is more transparent once applied to the skin and also has the ability to protect against UVA/UVB rays as well, although the sunscreen's ingredients have the ability to break down at a faster rate once exposed to sunlight, and some of the radiation is able to penetrate to the skin. In order for sunscreen to be more effective it is necessary to consistently reapply and use a higher spf.
Diet
Vitamin A, also known as retinoids, benefits the skin by normalizing keratinization, downregulating sebum production which contributes to acne, and reversing and treating photodamage, striae, and cellulite.
Vitamin D and analogs are used to downregulate the cutaneous immune system and epithelial proliferation while promoting differentiation.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that regulates collagen synthesis, forms barrier lipids, regenerates vitamin E, and provides photoprotection.
Vitamin E is a membrane antioxidant that protects against oxidative damage and also provides protection against harmful UV rays.
Several scientific studies confirmed that changes in baseline nutritional status affects skin condition.
Exfoliation:
Exfoliation is achieved through either mechanical or chemical means.
This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with an abrasive. Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper, crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges, loofahs, brushes, and simply fingernails. Facial scrubs are available for application by the user. People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed volcanic rock. Pumice is considered a good material to exfoliate the skin of the feet. Microdermabrasion is another mechanical method of exfoliation.
Chemical
Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid which may be applied in high concentrations by a medical practitioner, or in lower concentrations by a beautician. Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to ease away. This type of exfoliation is recommended for people treating acne.